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Why are We Really Using Oil on Our Hair?

September 3, 2017 By aishiastrickland_m8rrkn Leave a Comment

Some people swear that coconut oil is life...while others may have an affinity for much lighter oils like avocado or grape seed oil. But honestly, do we really know why we're using oils on our hair?

Neicy, a former oil using naturalista say's "I used oils for shine and moisture and all I would have is a greasy hand and dry looking hair."

Before discovering the 30dayhairdetox Iyami said " I always used oils...hot oil treatments and greasing my scalp, plus rubbing in for shine...but im free!!! And my hair is loving life bcuz its starting to behave!!! Week by week, style by style... #oilfreeandstillmoisturized"

According to Quiana " I did it because EVERY single video on Youtube I watched gave a million reasons why I should! I was told by other naturals that it moisturized and/or sealed the moisture in. I simply didn't know any better!"

Samantha Payne-Smith said "it depends on what YouTube video I was watching

but the LOC method seemed to be life. Weekly."

In the past Carlotta say's "I used oils when my hair looked and felt dry."

While the idea of oil being a moisture source tends to be really common it's totally inaccurate. Oil actually acts as a lubricant on the hair and in some cases it acts as a water repellent which is why so many women complain of dry hair when using it continuously as a remedy to 'fix" their dry hair issues.

"So if oil is making my hair dry how am I supposed to "moisturize it?"

When you get thirsty do you grab oil or water?

Our hair isn't any different...In order for the hair to get moisture it needs water and for that to happen the hair strands have to be cleansed throughly with a surfactant (a cleansing agent used to remove oil from the hair) to allow the cuticle (the outer most layer of the hair strand) to lift. Removing dirt, oil and butter heavy styling products and environmental debris from the hair is so crucial in the hair actually being "moisturized."

"But what about sealing, don't you need oil to seal the hair to lock in the moisture?"

No. Moisture is sealed into the hair when conditioner is applied to the hair strands to smooth down the cuticle. It's much harder to get moisture once the conditioner closes the cuticle and leaves a layer of humectants and emollients behind. It's important to note that while it's much harder to absorb moisture it's very easy to lose it.

The moisture acquired during the cleansing and conditioning session generally last anywhere from 4-7 days. It is over this 4-7 day period that the hair begins to become dehydrated/dry, giving us approximately 7-10 days before we need to repeat the process.

So instead of reaching for oil this is where you would reach for your shampoo and conditioner to rehydrate the hair all over again.

"What about my water oil blend in my spray bottle , couldn't I use that to "moisturize" my hair?"

Here's the thing, oil and water don't mix...not even in your spray bottle. Not only do oil and water not mix but every time you spray water on your hair in an attempt to "moisturize" it you're actually disturbing the hydrogen bonds which in turn disrupts your hair style. It's the equivalent to setting up Jenga and having someone come and knock it down before the game even get's started.

"What about the LOC Method then?"

While the LOC Method is problematic for a number of reasons it's important to understand that conditioner has already done what the LOC Method claims to do. In addition raw oil isn't a styler, it doesn't help or aide in the styling and setting of your hair.

"If oil doesn't moisturize my hair, then what does?"

Simply cleansing, conditioning and styling your hair every 7-10 days with botanically based products will help you in your journey to keep your hair hydrated/moisturized.

"This sounds so simple I would love to learn more about keeping my hair moisturized, where can I find more information?"

It actually is very simple and you can learn more straightforward haircare tips and tricks by signing up to our newsletter over at 30dayhairdetox.com.

Color Doesn’t Ruin Curls

August 21, 2017 By aishiastrickland_m8rrkn 2 Comments

So back in the early part of July I decided I wanted to go blonde, so of course like any sane person I called up one of my stylist friends, Kristen, to get the ball rolling. Going in I knew I wanted to go blonde however I wanted to shake things up a bit because this isn’t my 1st time doing the blonde thing. [Read more…] about Color Doesn’t Ruin Curls

7 Reasons You Need to Stop Using Coconut Oil and Shea Butter on Your Hair

July 28, 2017 By aishiastrickland_m8rrkn Leave a Comment

7 Reasons Why You Need to Stop Using Coconut Oil And Shea Butter On Your Hair

In Fall of 2015 I published an article on BlackDoctor.org, 10 Things Professional Hairstylists Want Us to Stop Doing to Our Hair, and it seems one of the stylist comments struck a major nerve. That person, Aeleise Jana, at the time a friend and newly acquired mentor. Her response..“Stop with the coconut oil and shea butter”…I'm sure your clutching your pearls and are wondering "how will my hair get moisture???'

She must be out of her mind, she hasn’t lost her mind! In fact she’s a professional natural hair stylist, a self professed “Curl Geek” who’s seen 100‘s of clients who’ve shared a few things in common. They’ve complained of dry frizzy hair and they were using coconut oil and shea butter like nobody’s business.

I asked Aeleise to share her professional knowledge on why she wants us all to stop with coconut oil and shea butter and here are the 7 reasons why…

1.They’re Heavy

In the realm of oils and butters coconut and shea are amongst the heaviest. They are so heavy in fact that they can create a barrier between your hair shaft and water. Aeleise say’s “Shea butter and coconut oil used the way most consumers do suffocates the hair and scalp. Moisture = water. Oil= sealant. If you don’t clarify the oil layer off of the hair and allow water to get into the cuticle you’re moisturizing dry hair.”

2. They Lead to Dry Hair

I’m sure you think that sheen from your oil/butter you see on your hair gives you the impression that it’s moisturized however according to Aeleise “Water evaporates in 4-7 days from hair so adding coconut or Shea to dry hair then co washing our using weaker sulfate free shampoos contributes to the experience of dry hair.”

3. They Cause Frizz

When hair is shampoo’d and sealed with either coconut oil or shea the hair is blocked from absorbing any moisture. According to Aeleise “Anything on top of that already closed cuticle seals water in and out.” In the case of coconut oil and shea butter we are sealing water out of the hair, thus not allowing it gain entrance to our hair strands. “
She furthers go on to explain “once the water stores in the hair evaporate, 4-7 days, the hair reaches out to the atmosphere for water (ie dry, rough, frizzy hair).”

4. They Do Not Moisturize the Hair

Water=Moisture Oil=Sealent
“There’s no need for oils (natural or petroleum based) on the hair but for sealing or lubrication. The scalp contains sebaceous glands that provide a protective layer for the scalp. Light oils that form a protective barrier around the hair strand are fine. What’s not ok is an absorbed oil (coconut oil and shea butter) that blocks water out of tree hair strand.”
You’re Using Way Too Much
You got coconut oil everywhere…it’s on your shirt, in your eye (and it’s burning), on your man. In fact you could caress your hands through your hair and use it to moisturize your entire body.
It isn’t necessary for your favorite shirt, eye or man to suffer through your coconut oil abuse.

5. You’re Using Way Too Much

You got coconut oil everywhere…it’s on your shirt, in your eye (and it’s burning), on your man. In fact you could caress your hands through your hair and use it to moisturize your entire body.
It isn’t necessary for your favorite shirt, eye or man to suffer through your coconut oil abuse.

6. They’re Not Water Soluble

Aeleise suggests “alternative ingredients like aloe vera, marshmallow root, jojoba oil, almond oil, etc that are water soluble or able to be easily removed with a light cleanser serve the hair better. Also a properly formulated lower ph conditioner does the job of closing the cuticle down over the water therefore sealing.”

7. They Cause Hair Build-Up

So your an avid user of coconut oil/shea butter and you use it religiously. Not only do you think this is the holy grail to your hair regimen you’re also pretty insistent about using sulfate free shampoos.

This is the beginning of an end to dry hair, frizzy limp hair. Gaining better insight and knowledge of your hair and your hair care will lead to healthier, simps hair care maintenance.

So what do you do now??? Before we can get into that there are some fundamental aspects for hair that you need to understand. For example the specifics on how our hair is actually absorbs moisture.

There are 3 ways that you can dive deeper:

You can book and appointment
You grab yourself of Wash Your Damn Hair
You can join The Black Curl Magic Digital Salon

All of these resources can be found at blackcurlmagic.com

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